The Jacquard loom shawls with printed imitations are produced at cheaper rates as compared to the original kani shawls which are handmade.
The imitations are made in different parts of india and are sold by retailers in delhi and other parts of the world at a very low price than original kani shawl.
“It is very difficult for a customer to distinguish between an original Kani shawl and a fake one,” the Jacquard made shawls have imitated designs of Kani and are produced in bulk. “These shawls carry a price tag of around Rs 20,000 whereas an original Kani shawl could go as high as Rs 2 lakh,” he said.
the artisans of kani shawl had no option but to reduce their wages to remain in the market.
Artisans individuals from non-traditional backgrounds have learned this craft and have set up enterprises, producing low quality machine made shawls increasing the competition further for the traditional weavers.
“Hundreds of shawls can be made in these machines in a day whereas it takes many months to weave a Kani shawl with hands” .
Kani shawl is woven by using small wooden spokes in the place of a “shuttle” as in a traditional loom.
These spokes are called “tujii” or “kani” locally. Kani shawl has been historically produced from fine hand spun Pashmina and santoosh fibres. Though 80 per cent of the contemporary Kani shawl continues to be produced out of fine hand spun fibres of Pashmina
“in a single kani shawl around thirty colors are used for making Kani shawls while a jacquard made shawls use only three to four colors,”
most of the retailer sells the imitated Kani shawls in the name of original hand made Kani shawl. They are cheating the customer and bringing bad name to Kashmir handicraft.
Exporters are also doing business with the machine made shawls in place of original Kani shawls thus decreasing the market for authentic Kani shawls.
The artisans demand direct market opportunities so that they are not exploited. “Government should support us and provide us market. Plus kani shawl society like us should adopt latest technology and social websites to promote the real kani shawl from Kashmir.
below the given picture explain the method of weaving kani shawl.
What Is Kani Shawl
picture 1 : First the design is drawn on a graph paper .
picture 2 : Then the design is filled with desired colours.
picture 3 ; The design is written by colour code technique ( Every colour is having particular symbol ).
picture 4 : The artisan keep the written code in front of him while working on the shawl.
picture 5 : weaving of kani shawl